No Hot Water - Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting

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Language: en

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Hi. This is Wayne from Sears Parts Direct.
Today we're going to provide some troubleshooting
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tips for an electric water heater that is
not heating.
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Of course, the first thing to check is the
power source.
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An electric water heater needs 240 volts of
power to heat water.
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Check both house circuit breakers for the
water heater.
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It's often hard to spot a tripped breaker.
We recommend that you shut off both breakers
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for the water heater and then turn them back
on. If a breaker was tripped, this will reset
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it. This will likely restore power, unless
you have a problem with the electrical supply
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itself, which should be addressed by a qualified
electrician.
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If you reset the circuit breakers and they
immediately trip again, then you likely have
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a broken and shorted heating element. Click
here to skip to the section of this video
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about checking the heating system inside the
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If your circuit breakers don’t trip right
after you reset them, wait 30 minutes for
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the water heater to recover and check for
hot water. If you’re still not getting any
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hot water, you may need to reset the hi-temperature
limit switch on the upper thermostat. You
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won't get any hot water if that limit switch
is tripped.
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Shut off the house circuit breakers for your
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Remove the upper heating element cover to
access the hi-temperature limit switch.
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Press the red button on the switch to reset
it then reinstall the cover.
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Turn the circuit breakers back on and check
to see if the water heater is heating normally.
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Even if resetting the limit switch solves
your problem, you may not be out the woods
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yet. You'll need to monitor your water temperature
for overheating. The hi-temperature limit
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switch tripped for a reason, likely because
you have a shorted heating element or defective
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thermostat causing the water to overheat.
You'll need to resolve overheating problems
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to prevent scalding. Water temperature should
never exceed 120 degrees.
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If the water overheats after resetting the
hi-temperature limit switch, view this video
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for troubleshooting tips to resolve that problem.
So far, we've tried resetting the circuit
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breakers and resetting the hi-temperature
limit switch on the water heater.
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If you're still not getting any hot water,
we'll need to check the power supply wiring.
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water heater. Make sure you cut off the correct
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circuit breakers for the water heater. If
the power is connected, it could shock or
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kill.
Remove the cover to the junction box that
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houses the power supply wiring. Make sure
that none of the wires are loose and all wire
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nuts are tight enough to make secure connections.
Reconnect any loose wires then reinstall the
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cover.
Turn on the house circuit breakers and check
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to see if you’re getting any hot water now.
If that didn’t solve the problem, we'll
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need to check the heating system inside your
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For this test, we'll be using a multi-meter
to check for continuity, which will confirm
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that power is making it to all of the internal
components. If you don't have a multi-meter,
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you can find one at Sears PartsDirect.com.
Shut off the house circuit breaker for the
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water heater before performing these checks.
Never attempt to check continuity with the
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power connected.
First we’ll check for a short circuit to
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the water heater cabinet. You’ll want to
check this, especially if your circuit breaker
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trips as soon as you reset it.
Access the power supply wiring again.
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Remove the wire nuts to access the water heater
supply wires, which will lead directly in
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to the water heater cabinet.
Set the multi-meter to measure ohms of resistance.
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Measure the resistance from the black wire
to the bare metal on the junction box. Repeat
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the same test with the red wire.
You should see a “1” appear in the far
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left corner of the meter during these short
circuit tests, indicating "no continuity."
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If you measure a resistance reading during
this test, then damaged wiring or a broken
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electrical part is touching the metal cabinet
and causing the short circuit. Do not restore
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power to the water heater until you find and
repair the damaged wire or the broken electrical
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part. A short circuit can shock you if you
touch the metal cabinet with the power connected.
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Next, we'll check the upper element heating
system, by measuring the resistance through
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the supply wiring. The upper element heating
system consists of the hi-temperature limit
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switch, the upper thermostat, the upper heating
element and the wires that connect those electrical
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parts. Since all of these components create
a complete circuit, if we don't have continuity here,
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we’ll know that the problem is in the upper
half of the water heater.
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Touch one meter probe to the black wire and
the other probe to the red wire.
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You should measure around 13 ohms of resistance
through the upper element heating system.
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If you measure 13 ohms of resistance, then
your upper element heating system is probably
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okay. Click here to skip ahead and check the
lower heating element system.
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If you find continuity through the upper heating
system, we'll need to check the individual
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parts to find the break.
With the power still disconnected, remove
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the upper heating element cover and check
the resistance for the upper heating element.
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Place one meter lead on each of the two screws.
You should measure about 13 ohms of resistance.
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If you measure “no continuity”, drain
the tank and replace the broken heating element.
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Here's a video that will show you how.
If the heating element is okay, we'll check
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the upper thermostat next. This thermostat
turns the upper heating element on and off
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to maintain hot water temperature. An electrical
switch inside the thermostat activates the
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element. If the switch is broken, the element
won't heat. At room temperature, the switch
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should be "on" to supply power to the heating
element.
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Refer to a wiring diagram for your water heater
to determine which terminals to check. Many
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water heaters have a sticker on the cabinet
or you can usually find one in your owner's
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manual. On this water heater, the thermostat
switch is between terminals 1 and 2.
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Touch one meter probe to terminal 1 and the
other probe to terminal 2.
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You should measure near zero ohms of resistance.
If you measure “no continuity,” then replace
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the thermostat. Here's a video that shows
you how.
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The last component in the upper element heating
system to check is the hi-temperature limit
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switch.
This wiring diagram shows us that the hi-temperature
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limit switch opens contacts between terminals
1 & 2 and between terminals 3 & 4 when it
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trips because the water is too hot.
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Repeat that process for terminals 3 & 4.
If you measure “no continuity,” then the
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hi-temperature limit switch is broken. You’ll
need to replace the whole upper thermostat
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because the limit switch is part of the thermostat.
If you’ve checked all of the parts in the
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upper heating system and you still haven't
found the break, then you know it’s gotta
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be in the wiring. Carefully examine the wiring
for loose connections. Reconnect any loose
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wires and repair any broken wires that you
find.
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If your upper heating system is ok, then we'll
check the lower heating system. According
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to our wiring diagram, we can check continuity
through the entire lower heating system circuit
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by measuring resistance through terminal 4
on the upper thermostat and terminal 4 on
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the hi-temperature limit switch.
Touch one meter probe to terminal 4 on the
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upper thermostat and the other meter probe
to terminal 4 of the hi-temperature limit
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switch. You should measure about 13 ohms of
resistance through the whole lower element
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heating system; that lets you know all lower
heating system components are working.
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You've now eliminated all possible failures
except one. The upper thermostat has a transfer
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switch which alternates power between the
upper heating element and the lower heating
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element so both heating elements in the tank
never heat at the same time. When the upper
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thermostat senses that water in the top of
the tank is hot enough, the transfer switch
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shifts power from the upper system to the
lower. If the transfer switch in the upper
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thermostat breaks, the lower heating element
won't get power. You’ll need to replace
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the whole upper thermostat because the transfer
switch is a component of that part.
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Now, if on the other hand, you measured an
open circuit when checking the lower element
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heating system, then you'll need to check
the individual parts of that system.
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The lower heating system is similar to the
upper, but only has a thermostat and heating
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We'll check the lower heating element first.
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With the power disconnected, access the lower
heating element to check continuity. You should
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measure about 13 ohms of resistance. If you
measure an open circuit, drain the tank and
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replace the heating element.
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the lower thermostat.
On the lower thermostat, there are only two
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terminals. Put the meter probes on either
side.
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If you measure an open circuit, then replace
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the thermostat.
If you can’t find any breaks in the lower
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heating system, then the problem has got to
be in the wiring. You’ll need to repair
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it before the water heater will work correctly.
Well I hope this video helped you out today.
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Be sure to check out our other videos and
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