Refrigerator Compressor Buzzing Won't Start Fridge Freezer Stopped Cooling Repair Video

WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en

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Oh, man.
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What such a nice, comforting sound.
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Now, all of the sudden, what's that buzzing
sound?
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Not good, and it's feeling kind of warm in
the fridge.
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I still have some ice cubes but it's like
they're starting to melt.
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I'm going to pull out the fridge and have
a look.
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It sounds like the compressor is not starting.
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Okay, if you're hearing that sound and what
it is is the compressor in the fridge has
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stopped running so you're going to want to
unplug it, pull off the back panel here.
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This cardboard here is actually useful to
the function of the machine, so you don't
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want to throw it away, or you don't want to
tear it off, or anything like that.
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You really do want to take the screws off
and save it for putting it back on because
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it aids in the energy efficiency of the refrigerator.
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So I'm going to pull out all of the screws
here and then, we're going to look at what
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is the relay and the common start and run
terminals on the compressor.
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What I have is these starter packs.
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I'll be taking it out.
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If you're taking care of multiple fridges,
it's a good idea to keep some of these starter
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packs on hand in case the fridge goes down
especially if you have multiple varieties
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of types of fridges.
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If you have all the same brand, you can kind
of stock the correct capacitor relay for your
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fridges, and you can just change that.
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If not, you can use these starter packs.
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The starter pack is kind of nice.
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It's a three-in-one starter pack, and they
come in different horsepower sizes.
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There's a one-third to one-fourth horsepower.
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It’s a common size.
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And, I find that works for older refrigerators.
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The black and the blue hot wires are another
size.
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It's a one fifth to one twelth horsepower,
and this works, in my experience, better for
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newer frigs.
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What I usually do is stock both of them and
if I have a fridge that goes out, then I'll
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use the lower horsepower, one first, and I
try that.
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And if that doesn't work then, go with the
higher one.
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A lot of times, if the situation is kind of
you've got nothing to lose, you can, again,
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get the DR manufacture design relay for these.
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But sometimes, in a situation where you don't
want the food to spoil or you need it right
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away, it's definitely nice to have these starter
packs so you can get it going.
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The design on these is not that easy to get
into.
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As you can see, it's pretty cramped quarters,
pretty tight, a lot going on with the refrigerant
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tubing and everything, but it's enough to
get in there and get it done.
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The starter pack comes in two different sizes.
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As I was telling you, those are the most common
and generally, will get you through just about
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anything you come across.
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So again, I like to stock one of each here.
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I'm taking off the little clip that holds
the compressor cover on, holds this capacitor
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in place, and the wiring, the relay.
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There's the capacitor.
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Pull the capacitor out, and again, you could
just replace that.
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I've had some luck here and there with relays
for air conditioners where I've been able
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to smack the relay and put it back in, and
then it work pretty much.
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I haven't had it go down since I did that,
but I don't have that much hope for this one
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here.
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I went ahead and tried it here anyway, but
of course, it didn't work out.
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But, it's me.
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Putting it back in.
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You'd think they'd tell you the horsepower
rating on the compressor itself or inside
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the frig, but they actually don't.
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You really have to know what's going to work
out for you.
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And like I said, on newer fridges, the lower
horse powers tend to work out, the one twelve
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to one fifth horsepower, the three-in-one
starter pack; and for older fridges, the one
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third to one fifth.
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So again, you might start with a lower one
and graduate to a higher one, if you didn't,
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again, examining the capacitor.
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I should tell you a capacitor can hold the
charge in it even after the power is disconnected.
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So, you may want to discharge the capacitor
and definitely avoid touching the leads of
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the capacitor after it's disconnected.
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There are some capacitors that discharge through
the motor windings, but I wouldn't leave that
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to chance.
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You can watch my video on how to discharge
a capacitor if you want to.
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Well, it's not that easy to see, but there’s
three posts on the compressor, the common,
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run, and start post.
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Here is the wiring [inaudible 00:06:14].
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This is your two power wires coming in.
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We'll be connecting those two.
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We'll be cutting these off and wire stripping
them, and connecting those to a three-in-one
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starter pack.
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And then, there's the three leads that'll
go to the compressor itself.
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Start in the run leads for the compressor
will usually be right next to each other and
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then, the common will be by itself.
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It's usually in a triangle setting.
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So the common is usually on top.
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I think the common is a black wire.
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The extra nut and the red wire will be the
run; and most often, it's to the right of
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the compressor when you're facing it.
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I think they did that so people would kind
of understand it.
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And if you couldn't read the common, run,
and start on the compressor, that's what I
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would go with first on the refrigerator.
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And then, when you plug it in, if it buzzes
and doesn't start, just go ahead and unplug
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it right away; and then, you might have to
switch the wires on that.
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This particular compressor, I could not see
at all to tell the designation for the common,
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run, and start so I just did, again, the common,
the black wire, to the one lead on top that
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was by itself.
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The red one, I did on the right side and then
the start, which is sometimes the yellow wire
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or a white wire on the left side.
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This one gave me a bit of trouble putting
the red run wire on.
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Again, this is all tight quarters and we want
to be careful for sharp parts, and we want
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to avoid bending the refrigerant to the…
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Sometimes, you might have to move something
out the way.
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Just, very gently, bend it, but you don't
want to bend it back and forth.
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It's better not to bend it at all if you can.
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That was about my best view there of common,
run, start terminals.
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Okay, so here is now our voltage lines coming
in the power lines.
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On the old one, it was labeled red and blue,
which red and blue are usually switch wire
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designations.
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For a switched wire, either red or blue, whereas
black is usually your straight hot that's
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why I'm using wire strippers to cut it and
strip them.
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It's a good idea to use wire strippers.
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It prevents taking out any strands of the
wire and getting a nice clean stripping of
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the installation rather than taking some of
the wires with it.
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Polarity is not an issue on this, so the blue
or the red can go to either side of the starter
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pack as it really doesn't matter so… just
delivering the power.
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Twisting the wires together.
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Again, when you're stripping off the wire,
examine the cutoff pieces that you stripped
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off and make sure that there’s no wires
strips left behind.
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If you've lost wire strands, make sure there's
no strands left behind in the stripped off
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portions because if your wire strands get
stripped off, it can become a place where
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heat will built up too strongly, and it can
burn the wire there.
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Anyway, I'm twisting the wires together.
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You can use a wire connector to link them
together.
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They used to be called wire nuts.
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These days, they're called wire connectors.
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I'm searching for one here.
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Just twist right on.
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And, you can kind of give the wires a tug
to make sure it's not going to pull out on
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you.
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But as long as you twist it together and the
wire nuts are threaded on, you're generally
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good to go.
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Now, we're ready to plug it in and check it
out.
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Hey, nice, beautiful sound.
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It's doing what it's supposed to do.
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The compressor started right up.
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I could have probably put this back together
first but I kind of wanted to verify that
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everything was good.
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It's probably not a really good idea to be
handling it with the power on, and you definitely
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don't want to put it back in there with the
power on; just too tight, and of course, the
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fan-rate spinning and everything else.
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You don't want to become crispy fried.
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You don't want to be blended either so you
will not blend.
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Anyway, it's up to you to find a creative
spot to hang this on.
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It's got this little clip on the side of it
that lets you anchor it but again, not always
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an easiest thing to find a spot.
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I guess I was able to tuck the wiring around.
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I was actually able to hang it right on the
compressor top cover itself which actually
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[inaudible 00:12:04] worked out perfect.
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The nice thing with that clip being anchored
on there is that if you do have to move the
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fridge in the future, the whole deal isn't
just going to be hanging down where it can
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get munched.
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So now, it's clipped on.
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And now, we're ready to put everything back
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We put the cover back on.
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And this cover is important to the function
of the machine.
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It's probably a good idea, while this was
apart, to blow it all out, to clean it all
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out, but I'll leave that for another story.
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Here is another look at that capacitor.
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And, if you wanted to use this three-in-one
starter for a temporary fix and then, order
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the correct capacitor, you could do that.
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I've had pretty good luck with these starter
packs.
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And that compressor, it could just be that
that compressor is just having such a hard
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time starting that it really needs the extra
hard start kit that's in the starter pack,
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so it really depends.
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Again, I've got really good fortune using
these, and haven't had one go down after I
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installed it.
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So, I'm just going to leave one in place.
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Again, I can take the capacitor back and I
could order that relay for that capacitor
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but I'm not too worried about it.
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Put everything back together.
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If you had your fridge plugged in, it's a
good idea to wait about five minutes so putting
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this cover back on is just perfect before
plugging it back in.
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The five minute wait will allow the compressor’s
pressure to equalize.
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Otherwise, the compressor might not start
if you plug it in too early.
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Now, we're ready, and
there we go.
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